Your problem sounds like an underwattage issue for the non-neutral PD-6WCL dimmers. I am using the 75W equivalent (Model try replacing the bulbs with regular incandescent and see if the problem goes away. It is for a 65W equivalent version of the EcoSmart R30 (Model 1003012803). If I could completely disable the fade on/off functionality on the PD-6WCL I would to workaround this problem, but it looks like it's not possible to change this.Here is the Lutron compatibility report for the EcoSmart bulb closest to the model I'm using. Around the same time it started happening with two other PD-6WCL switches in my kitchen that power a single pair of lights, each (which are also using EcoSmart LED bulbs).I do not notice this behavior with other, less frequently used PD-6WCL switches in my house.I've tried adjusting the low-end of the fade trim up on the lights that are flashing on then turning off. This behavior has been consistent since it started. When I turned the lights on by pressing the physical switch on the PD-6WCL the five ceiling lights would do nothing, then flicker on full brightness, then turn off and fade back on to full brightness. They also responded promptly when I adjusted the dimming levels using HomeKit, Alexa, and the Lutron app.In June, I started to notice some unexpected behavior. They faded on slowly to full brightness and they faded off as expected. I didn't even need to adjust the low- or high-end dimming levels. I installed EcoSmart 75-Watt Equivalent BR40 Dimmable LED lights (120 VAC, 60 Hz, 140 mA, 12.5 W, 2700K, 940 Lumens 2018GT) into each of the five recessed cans.When I first started using this in April it worked like a charm. I replaced my existing switch with a Caseta PD-6WCL switch. In my kitchen I have five recessed cans attached to one switch. I think thats "daisy chaining".Īnyways, just wondering how to wire this shunt cap in.I installed my first Caseta switches in April of this year. How is it wired between the switch and lights? My lights are in parallel with the switch ( neutrals all wired together at switch, neutral to panel and neutral to lights wired together) then my lights are in parallel to the switch hot/neutral into first light from switch, hot/neutral from light, and then hot/neutral to next light, and so on. ![]() ![]() Thanks for replying! I have a few general questions about the lut-mlc. That being said, plenty have successfully added an MLC to a dimming circuit and are happy with the results. Note that the only official use that I have ever seen documented for using the MLC is the non-neutral switches in Caseta, RA2, and Maestro Wireless. Thus eliminating the "ghosting" you are experiencing. Once the dimmer or switch is turned "on", the excess current will fill the remainder on the capacitor and then travel to the fixture. The MLC is a 6mA shunt capacitor, it works by absorbing the LED readout on the digital dimmers in the home control lines- Caseta, RadioRA2, HWQS, RA2 Select. Please advise I am not an electrician or electrical engineer.ġ) Change the LEDs to an approved product- may not solve the problemĢ) Change dimmer to the PD-6ANS- most likely would solve or at least reduce the "ghosting" you are experiencingģ) Try the LUT-MLC- lots of posts on this, Lutron reluctantly has mentioned the MLC with dimming now. ![]()
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