And the first roof (at the start of the third pitch), I’m always a little bit tense there because you’re just starting up the route. The Freeblast was still engaging for sure. I was karate chopping hand jams, just flying up. I was in there like ‘this is so cruiser’, having a great time.Īnd from the round table to the summit it was celebratory climbing. I bet that’s the fastest the Monster has ever been climbed. The Monster was one of the best because you feel completely safe and, without a harness on, it felt really easy there. (laughs) Which parts are going to stick in your mind when you’re 70? Kids, that thing takes about four hours to climb by yourself-after years of effort. When you’re 70, you’re going to come into Yosemite with your grandkids, and they’re going to see El Capitan. I woke up at around 2:30 or 3:30, like, ‘Let’s do this!’ And then looked at the clock and was like, ‘oh,’ and then went back to sleep and then woke up around 4:30. It’s more you have to be in exactly the right (mental) place, so I was trying to create the right place. ![]() ![]() Because physically (the climb) is not that hard to execute. ![]() You want to be coming off light exercise. You don’t want to be coming off bed rest. You didn’t even take a rest day before you free-soloed El Cap? Then I watched the last Hobbit movie and just vegged. I went bouldering in the morning a little bit because I wanted to break in my shoes a little, and then I went hiking with my mom and some of her friends. We ended up on top exchanging hugs for a while. I woke up one guy and he sort of said, “Oh, hey.” Then when I went by, I think he discreetly woke up his buddies because when I looked down they were all three standing there like ‘what the f***’? It looked like one person was wearing a unicorn costume? It felt much less scary than a lot of other solos I’ve done. At Heart Ledge it looked like you were trying to get a water bottle you’d stashed without waking anyone up. I passed five people asleep on the Heart and Lung ledges, but I didn’t really chat with anyone. (Laughing) That’s the quote of the day so far. I mean you don’t just retire as soon as you get down. I mean I still want to climb hard things someday. ( Editor’s note: climbers regularly practice dangling from fingertip holds on a hang board to improve their grip strength.) So it’s still just game on? Honestly even now I feel like I could go do another lap right now. And then on the Freeblast (glass-smooth slabs of granite without handholds), I was slightly tense, but felt really good. I mean it’s a freaking big wall above you. A lot of the handholds feel like old friends.Īt the bottom I was slightly nervous. I didn't feel that stressed because in a way I had already committed to autopilot and just put everything aside. I kind of had a headache when I went to bed. Not dragging 60 meters of rope behind you for the whole mountain, I felt so much more energetic and fresh. ![]() I didn't have much of a backpack, and the climbing just felt amazing. I don’t think the mountain looked that scary this morning. Did the mountain look scary this morning? Honestly, I think this is the most satisfied I’ve ever been. Or you’re having the best day of your life. Find the film in theaters starting September 28, 2018. Watch Alex Honnold's journey toward his rope-free climb of the world's most famous rock wall-Yosemite National Park's El Capitan-in Free Solo, a stunning, intimate, unfliching film by E.
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